marc jacobs presented this charming collection of what I call post-coital retro at right where it belongs: "hotel louis vuitton", which was constructed inside louvre museum specifically for the show. paying ode to a beautifully stripped-down liz taylor in butterfield 8; robes, pj pants, satin camis, embellished tulle nightgowns, and lace-edged slip dresses reinterpreted with houndstoot tweed (which were my favorite of the collection), all told the unmistakably particular story of a walk of shame- a very chic one indeed. and I'm pretty glad that the louis vuitton woman has to endure this- you know, some lingerie just has to be seen (although in some looks she had a few really nice coats on to cover up her boudoir chic, but even at those cases she couldn't help but allow us a glimpse into her slip). the dusty color palette consisting of lavender, navy, cream, taupe, moss and touches of flirtatious black seemed secretive rather than demure.
dries van noten
sturdy, shiny oxfords, suits pants, classic blazers and coats, crisp button-down shirts are decorated with feathers, flapper fringes, embellishments, tulle- all that glitters.inspired by the legendary dance partners ginger rogers and fred astaire from the 1930s, the collection is constantly strolling around the absolute edges of both femininity and masculinity, all in once. one thing that stays put during these back-and-forth trips is the vintage-mindedness. strangely, this doesn't feel at all like a case of victor/victoria. this feels very, very right. PS mr. van noten, we've been getting along really, really well lately, aren't we? your spring-summer 2013 was probably my favorite collection in years, just quietly, until this one came along. and, fyi, I'm on the verge of calling you my absolute favorite fashion designer.
oh helllloooo downton abbey, perhaps with a touch of the age of innocence. as we watch a young girl mature into a woman through this beautiful collection, the velvet is soft and the embroideries are delicate. serenity of fully saturated colors and uber-luxurious details also seem to accompany her in this sensitive period of passage and help her to figure it out. ferretti certainly knows a thing or two about this whole femininity thing. I also love the idea of adding a touch of the uber-chic late-fifties-to-early-sixties figure to a very fin de siècle spirit.
congrats, you've somehow managed to reach the end of part 1- can't wait to talk about dior, rochas & valentino awesomeness in the next episode of fall collections ravemania with deniz.