Friday, September 27

lusting on: the pink coat

the pink coat

birds do it, bees do it, even the über-cool céline girls do it this season. whether it's all girly and syrupy-sweet as in simone rocha, androgynous as in mulberry, or lavish in fur-lined silk just like louis vuitton's, the pale pink coat, in any shape, size or form, has rightfully acquired the title piece of the season.

without getting stuck in gender clichés, a pink coat can go so many ways that always have the right amount of shock effect.

Céline, Simone Rocha, Carven, Mulberry, Carven
Honor, Topshop Unique, Louis Vuitton, Blumarine, Jonathan Saunders

while pulling of the pink coat myself, I'll have funny face (1957), starring fred astaire and audrey hepburn and one of my favorite classic films, in my mind. the movie's lovely "think pink" theme (check out the link if you haven't seen it), and audrey hepburn's unforgettable tomboy look in it is a perfect way to keep the look going from a direction that's a tad too cutesy and costume-y.

I'll add a pair of boyish loafers, cropped pants and a crisp button-down, and hopefully I'm sorted for the upcoming season!
think pink!

intimidated? check out my pink coat mood board on pinterest.

favorite shows from FW 2013 - part 2

continuing what I started in part 1 earlier this week, here are another three of my favorite collections from the fall-winter 2013 season. this one tends to be a very nostalgic and feminine chapter.


it's all about the face in this vermeer-inspired collection. opening with various reinterpretations of ysl's iconic school girl dress (seen here on catherine deneuve in belle de jour), it's only natural that artfully face-framing collars of all sorts play the leading role. saturated hues of black, ruby and sapphire and a delicate ivory dominated the color palette of the collection, while deliciously creamy fabrics, impeccable lace and ever-so-elegant embroidery tend to steal the spotlight back and forth from each other. overall a beautiful journey through old and new, traditional and the contemporary. maria grazia chiuri and pierpaolo piccioli are certainly establishing themselves as a very foolproof designer duo.


put a belt on it! in his penultimate collection for rochas, designer marco zanini takes us to a journey through the 1950's. rich in both texture (knit, velvet, mink, silk and wool) and in character: sometimes it's a hitchcock blonde, sometimes it's audrey hepburn in funny face climbing up the famous steps of montmartre, and sometimes just a boarding school girl in her pajamas absconding for the night. sombre colors like taupe, camel, prune, cream, khaki and mahogany add an explicitly nostalgic spirit into the collection, but punches of apricot, acid yellow, sky blue and baby pink cheer it all up. my favorites happen to be those mouth-watering silk pajama suits, skirts- both pencil and full, and that perfect little black dress. I'm planning to form my entire winter wardrobe around this collection.

christian dior

raf simons uses impressively simplistic 1950's (which happens to be the fashion house's heydays) silhouettes as a canvas for the collection where he plays with the patterns and illustrations freely. what grabs the attention the most is what simons calls memory dresses, where the black or white garnment is used as a mere sketchbook to demonstrate embroidered recreations of andy warhol's early drawings. I reckon these will quickly become collectors' pieces. however, the star of the collection for me is pied-de-poule, or the alice in wonderland treatment simons gives to the classic pattern: cuts it open, dichotomizes it, bends it up, magnifies and miniaturizes it.

I'll have to admit one thing here- when raf simons presented his first collection as the new creative director of dior, I wasn't as crazy enthusiastic as everyone else. sure I was happy that dior finally got rid of john galliano's VA-VA-VA-VA-WHOOOSH-EIGHT-DAYS-A-WEEK. plus, the pieces were honestly pretty revolutionary and quite impeccable by themselves, but (and a big 'but' indeed- pun not intended) well, not always that much so on women (such as here). there were times I thought simons didn't get the female body well enough, for which I blamed his roots in furniture design. but this collection made me get rid of all doubts. there's usually usually a tradeoff between freshness and brand heritage when a new designer acquires the position at a namesake brand, but raf simons captures that specific dior sensitivity galliano never did, while being progressive as mr. dior himself once was, rather than being fully stuck with the brand's past. I'm not sure whether that means anything, but he should know that he has my full blessing.

Tuesday, September 24

favorite shows from FW 2013 - part 1

now that we've all more or less been exposed to the full-on autumn chill, it's time to remember our favorites from the fall-winter 2013 collections. since I've simply got too many shows I want to talk about, I'm planning to do this in three parts to facilitate the reading process. enjoy & feel free to rave about your favorites in the comments section!

louis vuitton

marc jacobs presented this charming collection of what I call post-coital retro at right where it belongs: "hotel louis vuitton", which was constructed inside louvre museum specifically for the show. paying ode to a beautifully stripped-down liz taylor in butterfield 8; robes, pj pants, satin camis, embellished tulle nightgowns, and lace-edged slip dresses reinterpreted with houndstoot tweed (which were my favorite of the collection), all told the unmistakably particular story of a walk of shame- a very chic one indeed. and I'm pretty glad that the louis vuitton woman has to endure this- you know, some lingerie just has to be seen (although in some looks she had a few really nice coats on to cover up her boudoir chic, but even at those cases she couldn't help but allow us a glimpse into her slip). the dusty color palette consisting of lavender, navy, cream, taupe, moss and touches of flirtatious black seemed secretive rather than demure.

dries van noten

sturdy, shiny oxfords, suits pants, classic blazers and coats, crisp button-down shirts are decorated with feathers, flapper fringes, embellishments, tulle- all that glitters.inspired by the legendary dance partners ginger rogers and fred astaire from the 1930s, the collection is constantly strolling around the absolute edges of both femininity and masculinity, all in once. one thing that stays put during these back-and-forth trips is the vintage-mindedness. strangely, this doesn't feel at all like a case of victor/victoria. this feels very, very right. PS mr. van noten, we've been getting along really, really well lately, aren't we? your spring-summer 2013 was probably my favorite collection in years, just quietly, until this one came along. and, fyi, I'm on the verge of calling you my absolute favorite fashion designer.

alberta ferretti

oh helllloooo downton abbey, perhaps with a touch of the age of innocence. as we watch a young girl mature into a woman through this beautiful collection, the velvet is soft and the embroideries are delicate. serenity of fully saturated colors and uber-luxurious details also seem to accompany her in this sensitive period of passage and help her to figure it out. ferretti certainly knows a thing or two about this whole femininity thing. I also love the idea of adding a touch of the uber-chic late-fifties-to-early-sixties figure to a very fin de siècle spirit.

congrats, you've somehow managed to reach the end of part 1- can't wait to talk about dior, rochas & valentino awesomeness in the next episode of fall collections ravemania with deniz.